Knitting Questions and How to
November 15th, 2007 at 08:02am
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
“Dear SweaterBabe, I have never knit a ‘fitted’ sweater that requires increasing and decreasing stitches in a bodice that has a pattern. What is the easiest way to keep track of the increases and decreases, so that the pattern is maintained?
Also, do you know of a computer program that would help do this, e.g. a computer program that would “graph out” a pattern?? Thanks for your help.” – Ilona
Dear Ilona,
The main thing I do with any pattern that has multiple sizes, stitch patterns, shaping, or other complexity is to map it out by rows using paper and pencil.
Before that, I do recommend photocopying the pattern and then circling ALL of the instructions that apply for the size you are making. For example, if you are making size Small and the instructions include Small (Medium, Large), then you will be finding all of the parts of the pattern that say things like: “K23 (25, 27)” or “For Size Small ONLY” and circling or highlighting the “23″ part (since you would ignore the “(25, 27) which are for the Medium and Large sizes) and the whole section under “For Size Small ONLY”.
Then, as I am beginning to follow the pattern, I write down EVERY Row number, starting from Row 1, and note what happens on Rows that have any increasing or decreasing or a change in stitch pattern. I also note the number of stitches that I should have at the end of an increasing or decreasing Row.
If there is a stitch pattern (cable, lace, intarsia, etc.) involved or multiple, I will note which Row of the stitch pattern(s) I am following for each project Row. That way, I will always keep track of the total Rows for a piece, as well as which stitch pattern Row I am.
It seems tedious, but I do it for any pattern that is the least bit complicated. It helps a lot too when you keep good track of the Back piece of a sweater because the Front piece(s) most likely will follow the same Rows and you can then be sure that your Back and Front(s) are the same length, i.e. number of Rows to the underarm, shoulder, etc. Same with making sure the 1st sleeve matches the 2nd sleeve.
Now, if your question is also how to handle increases and decreases for shaping when the stitch pattern has increases and decreases (most lace stitch patterns do), then the answer is a bit more complicated.
You basically do what you can of the stitch pattern, up to the point that you have to do the shaping increases or decreases. For instance, if you are binding off stitches and doing decreases along a neck edge to shape the neckline, you may do an initial bind off that cuts right into your lace stitch pattern. Do the bind off, as instructed, then resume the lace stitch pattern with the remaining stitches. Double check how many stitches you are supposed to have after this bind off row.
Sometimes, you may have to “adjust” the lace stitch and omit a decrease or increase to end up with the right number of stitches. Hopefully, by the time you get to the neck shaping, you will have done the lace stitch pattern enough for the body of the piece that you are familiar with which decreases and increases within the structure of the lace stitch pattern are paired up to maintain the stitch count from row to row. That way, when you can only do part of the lace stitch pattern, you can see which increase or decreases to skip or add to keep the stitch count correct through any shaping.
I’m afraid I can’t be much more specific about this last issue, as each stitch pattern can be so different. The most important thing is to make sure the stitch count is correct. A little weird increasing or decreasing (otherwise known as “fudging” at the edges is usually ok since there will be some finishing (like a picked up and knitted collar or edging) that will hide unsightly edges.
And lastly, I’m not aware of any programs that can map or graph out a pattern as you are suggesting. There are definitely programs that can generate schmatics and graphs of patterns, but I imagine that by the time you learn these programs and enter in all the project information, you would have been just as well off writing out Rows as I do for projects.
Hope that helps! Intermediate and Expert level projects are challenging in this way, but with a little extra attention to where you are in the pattern, the finished results will be very rewarding!
Best,
SweaterBabe
Have any other suggestions for Ilana, please post your comments!
If you have questions about OTHER topics, please don’t post them here. Please email them to advice@sweaterbabe.com. Questions are selected and answered here on the blog.
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
September 25th, 2007 at 10:10am
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Knitting Stitch Pattern repeats can be confusing to understand. I’ve been getting lots of emails about understanding how to do these repeats when the stitch count seems to be off.
Here is a specific example that will help!
Here are the first few rows of the Diamond Lace Stitch Pattern as it appears in the SweaterBabe.com pattern instructions for #70 Lush and Lacy Cardigan pattern:
Diamond Lace
Worked over a multiple of 10 sts + 1.
Row 1 (WS and all other WS Rows): Purl.
Row 2: K2, *k2tog, [k1, yo] 2 times, k1, skp, k3; rep from *, ending last rep with k2.
For the BACK, you are asked to work this Diamond Lace over the 21 stitches for the BACK Lace Panel.
BUT, it seems like you need 22 stitches to get through the repeats on Row 2.
Here is why the 21 stitches is correct… it’s the ”ending last rep with k2” part.
What does this last part mean???
Over your 21 sts, do this:
Row 2: K2, *k2tog, [k1, yo] 2 times, k1, skp, k3; rep from *, ending last rep with k2.
Written out for the exact 21 sts, you are doing this:
Row 2: K2, k2tog, [k1, yo] 2 times, k1, skp, k3; k2tog, [k1, yo] 2 times, k1, skp, k2.
The italicized part in is the “last rep” of the part led by the *, so instead of ending it with the “k3;” you are “ending last rep with k2.”
OR, written out even more (removing the brackets and “2 times” wording and just writing it out):
Row 2: K2, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, skp, k3;k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, skp, k2.
This gives you the 21 sts.
Hope this clears it up!
I realize that the “ending last rep with k2″ is new to those that have not seen this before. It is used a lot in knitting and crochet instructions if just the last rep of the pattern is only different.
These are the conventions that prevent written, published patterns from being really, really long. Now that you have seen this, hopefully it will make sense the next time you encounter it!
Katherine
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
September 4th, 2007 at 08:36am
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Figuring out how to find a good yarn substitute for a knitting or crochet pattern can be a challenge.
Sometimes, it’s a cinch if the yarn is more basic and has a “common” gauge (e.g. 4 or 5 stitches to the inch).
Other times, it can be more difficult if the original yarn used in the pattern has a special blend or unique characteristics…
Here are some basic tips on substituting yarn and measuring gauge.
(If you have a great tip to share on yarn substituting, please email it to advice@sweaterbabe.com.)
If you want to test a yarn and see if it might substitute well for the yarn called for in a pattern, the most important thing is the match the gauge.
Using the needles or hook size suggested in the pattern, make a gauge swatch, i.e. knit or crochet a small 4″ x 4″ or so sample in your yarn. Work the sample in whatever stitch pattern is stated in the Gauge section of your pattern.
Sometimes, it will just be St st, or sc. Sometimes, the gauge is given with the specific lace, cable, or whatever special pattern stitch is used in the project. If this is the case, making the swatch is also a great opportunity for you to try out the pattern stitch and make sure you feel comforable doing it. If the pattern stitch is worked over a multiple of 10 sts plus 1, for example, use the closest multiple that will give you enough of a swatch to measure your gauge nicely. So, if in this same example, the Gauge says 20 sts = 4″, then cast on 21 sts to do 2 repeats of the pattern stitch.
When making a gauge swatch, make sure you work at least 3-4″ , and then BIND OFF! Resist the urge to measure while your swatch is still on your needles, as it is too easy to make your measurements “fit” the desired gauge. Be careful not to cast off too tightly as well.
You may also wish to block the swatch (if you plan to block the finished item as well) before measuring to be even more accurate.
Lay the swatch out on a flat surface (a table, not your lap!) and measure with a ruler or tape measure. Measure across your swatch and count full stitches, NOT half or partial stitches. If you are looking across your ruler and the 3″ marker does not nicely land at the edge of a stitch, then look at the 4″ marker and see if that is at the edge of a stitch. If still not, then try the 5″ marker, etc.
If you find that you have MORE stitches per inch than the pattern Gauge, then try your swatch again with a larger needle or hook.
If you find that you have LESS stitches per inch than the pattern Gauge, then try your swatch again with a smaller needle or hook.
If your gauge is still not matching, you can keep trying, or you may have to try a different yarn. Some yarns are just not good substitutes for each other because of yarn weight or the fiber. You may also reach a point that the gauge you are getting is “close enough.” This may work for you if your project is a blanket or something where fit is not crucial. Do remember that even being a half stitch off can get multipled across the full width of a sweater or blanket and give you a dramatically different width than what you intended AND may eat up more yarn (if your gauge was larger, i.e. you had fewer stitcher per inch) than you wanted (and therefore cost more $$!). Just beware.
Generally, stitch gauge is FAR more important than row gauge. The number of stitches you cast on or use for your rows defines your width and can’t be changed without altering the pattern. If your row gauge is slightly off, you can usually just knit or crochet a few extra or less with no problem.
Here are some initial thoughts on finding possible yarn substitutes for a pattern:
– Use the internet to search on “substitute for [yarn brand] [yarn name]” or a similar search. You may find good yarn substitutes that others have used and commented on in their blogs. It’s worth a shot.
– Try your local yarn shop and ask the salespeople for some advice. If they have a decent selection, you may be able to find something similar just by browsing around.
– If your local yarn shop is not a good option or you can’t find anything there… try to search online yarn shops for similar yarns. See what yarn weight category the original yarn is and search the yarns that are a similar weight.
More on this topic in a future post! Please comment with your thoughts, questions, and tips!
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
August 28th, 2007 at 08:43am
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Hi SweaterBabe,
I just started knitting, and am trying to make an afghan. It’s really confusing.
The first instruction is : Rows 1-9 : P1 (K1, P1) across.
What does this mean????
I also wanted to know; I found a very short and easy looking scarf pattern. Is it possible to extend the scarf into a blanket?
Thanks, Arianna
Dear Arianna,
I believe the instruction: P1 (K1, P1) across means P1, *k1, p1; repeat from * to end.
This is basically a 1×1 stitch rib. So, purl the 1st st, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, etc. to the end.
The person who wrote the pattern used more of a shorthand. The “across” means to repeat what is in the parentheses over and over until you are done with the row.
As for your second question… it depends. Without seeing how complicated the pattern is for the scarf, I can try to generalize.
If your scarf instructions call for a pattern to be worked over, say 20 stitches, then you may just be able to use a multiple of 20 (like 80, 100, or 120, etc.) and just repeat the scarf instructions over and over (like 4 times, 5 times, or 6 times, etc.) to complete the row.
So, if your scarf pattern is for a scarf that will be, say 5″ in width, then if you want a baby blanket that is about 30″ wide, multiply the number of stitches that your scarf pattern asks you to cast on by 6 to get the number of stitches for your baby blanket.
That is one way to do it.
Sometimes, a pattern may also have a separate section of the instructions that gives you the stitch pattern. In these cases, the stitch pattern may say that it can be done over a “multiple of 10 stitches plus 2,” for instance. Then, you may just use this part of the pattern to plan out a blanket…
Hope that all makes sense! Comment with further questions on this post…
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
July 28th, 2007 at 07:50am
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Dear SweaterBabe,
I was wondering what CL and CR means.
Thank you. — Kathy P.
Dear Kathy,
“CL” means Cross Left and “CR” means Cross Right. Both are techniques done with 2 stitches.
Sometimes, they are referred to as twisted stitches and abbreviated as “LT” (left twist) and “RT” (right twist).
With CL or LT, you will be crossing the next stitch in front of the following stitch.
Here is what you do:
With right-hand needle behind the left-hand needle, sk the next st on the left-hand needle and k the 2nd st tbl, then k the skipped st in front lp. Slip both sts from left-hand needle.
With CR or RT, you will be crossing the next stitch in back of the following stitch.
Here is what you do:
Sk the next st on the left-hand needle and k the 2nd st in front of the skipped st, then k the skipped st. Slip both sts from left-hand needle.
Try the technique and you will see that it is not too difficult and produces interesting crossed stitches.
Good luck!
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
June 27th, 2007 at 08:47am
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Dear SweaterBabe,
I am wondering if you have any advice for someone wanting to start a local meeting for people who want to learn how to knit? I know there are several people in the area who would be interesting in coming to something like that, but nobody knows how to go about setting one up or getting a place to meet. I also don’t know how often it would be good to have the meeting. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
– Cristi
Dear Cristi,
What a wonderful thing to do! I can certainly give you some advice, and I’m sure there are others that might chime in on the comments to this post.
Here goes…
LOCATION IDEAS:
– Maybe a local coffee shop? Many coffee shops, whether the big chains like Starbucks or Coffee Bean, or the independant ones, have great comfy sofas/chairs or lots of seating that you can group together.
Visit a few. Here are the things I would consider:
-Do they have good/easy parking?
-Are they open to allowing small groups to gather? Maybe there are certain times of the day that the cafe is less busy and they would love the business?
-Will they have a minimum order per person?
-Do they have decent lighting if you are meeting in the evenings?
-Maybe they have a community board and will let you post a notice about your meeting there?
-Maybe they are even willing to provide a food/beverage discount if you are going to be regulars?
– How about your local library? Many local branches offer knitting nights, which I presume meant someone like you suggested it to them! Worth a phone call or a visit. Plus. GREAT air-conditioning and you can browse knitting books together! And, they will most likely post flyers for your knitting group meetings to the whole library community.
– Ask your nearby yarn shops. Many have knitting groups already set up or would be happy to host new ones. It’s great for their business and you and your knitting buddies get to knit in a very inspiring environment.
– Check if there is already a Stitch-n-bitch group in your area. I’d do an online search and see if you can locate one. There are so many across the U.S., it’s a great community to join!
OTHER THOUGHTS:
– Meet as often as there is interest. I think many groups meet 1-2 times a month. I think it depends on how many you have in your group as well. If you have 30 members, then having more frequent meetings might work as you may get your critical mass at most meetings.
– Communicate with your group via email if at all possible. It will make your life so much easier if you are the co-ordinator. Many groups set up a special Yahoo Group to do so. That way, you can easily send out an email to the group and be sure that all members should receive it.
– Keep it casual and fun. Maybe you can invite members to share their favorite cookies (and the recipe) at meetings.
– Set expectations in terms of whether your group is to “teach how to knit” or more of a “come and get some help here and there”. The more experienced knitters are usually more than happy to help the less experienced; however, if you are finding that those interested are total newbies, you’ll need to be sure you have enough experienced ones that feel comfortable teaching (and don’t mind taking the extra time) before you set up the meetings.
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
June 15th, 2007 at 06:35pm
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Hello SweaterBabe,
I was wondering if you could help me figure out a part of a debbie bliss pattern that’s giving me a headache. Where it introduces an increase to the sweater it gives the stitch of the increase row, then says “cont in patt and inc in this was at each end of 5 foll 6th rows.”
This direction isn’t covered in any of my ‘how to knit’ books, and doesn’t make any sense. Can you tell me what it means?
Thanks,
Valerie
Dear Valerie,
Good question! Knitting patterns can seem so cryptic.
Here are a few translations:
“Continue in patterns as established, increasing one stitch at each end on the 6th row [from now] and every following 6th row 4 more times.”
OR
Let’s say you are currently on Row 10. Then, increase 1 stitch at each end on Rows 16, 22, 28, 34, and 40. That’s 5 increase rows, where 2 stitches are added per increase row = 10 added stitches. You can usually use whatever basic technique you like to increase at or next to the 1st stitch on an increase row and at or next to the last stitch on that same increase row.
OR
Let’s say you are currently on Row 10 when you read this instruction. It means:
Rows 11-15: Work even in pattern.
Row 16 (1st increase row): Increase 1 stitch at each end of the row = 2 stitches added.
Rows 17-21: Work even in pattern.
Row 22 (2nd increase row): Increase 1 stitch at each end of the row = 2 stitched added.
Rows 23-27: Work even in pattern.
Row 28 (3rd increase row): Increase 1 stitch at each end of the row = 2 stitched added.
Rows 29-33: Work even in pattern.
Row 34 (4th increase row): Increase 1 stitch at each end of the row = 2 stitched added.
Rows 35-39: Work even in pattern.
Row 40 (5th increase row): Increase 1 stitch at each end of the row = 2 stitched added.
This is a very common instruction in shaped patterns. I often have a separate pen and paper where I map out the rows (like I did in the 2nd and 3rd translations above) to make sure I do all of the proper increases.
Ideally, the instructions would confirm with you how many stitches you should have after all of the 5 increase rows so you can double check that you are interpreting the directions correctly.
Hope that clears it up for you!
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
June 13th, 2007 at 12:24pm
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Dear SweaterBabe,
How do you convert yards to ounces?
Dear Knitter/Crocheter,
You can only convert yards (a measure of the length of yarn) to ounces (a measure of the yarn’s weight) if you know how many yards there are per ounce or gram of the yarn.
This kind of information can be given on the yarn’s ball band/label or you may be able to easily find it online if you know the name of the yarn. Do a search and either the yarn company that makes the yarn or an online yarn store will have that information available.
Otherwise, it’s a bit of a guess. Why? Because yarn weight and length can vary a lot based on what the yarn is made of and it’s thickness. For example, a featherlight mohair that is sold in super fine or fingering weight, like Rowan’s Kidsilk Haze is sold as .875 oz/25g ball has a length of 227 yds/208m; whereas a bulky 100% wool yarn, like Brown Sheep Burly Spun, is a hefty 8 oz./229g hank, which has only a length of 132 yds/121m.
If you can’t find the yarn label or don’t know what the yarn is, I would suggest going to your nearest yarn shop, finding a similar yarn and seeing what it’s yarn label says for it’s weight to yardage ratio. Then, you can use this ratio to give you an approximation for your yarn.
Hope that helps!
SweaterBabe
P.S. Here are some math conversions that are helpful:
[Number of inches] x 2.54 = Number of cm
[Number of cm] x .394 = Number of inches
[Number of feet] x .3048 = Number of meters
[Number of yards] x .9144 = Number of meters
[Number of meters] x 1.0936 = Number of yards
[Number of grams] x .035 = Number of ounces
[Number of ounces] x 28.57 = Number of grams
For example, if you have a 50g ball of yarn, it is a 50 x .035 = 1.75g ball of yarn.
Happy knitting and crocheting!
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
June 13th, 2007 at 11:54am
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Dear Sweaterbabe,
I thought I knew how to knit albeit simply! However, I am doing a baby jacket and have got to a row which says knit 1, yarn to front, slip a stich purlwise, yarn to back.
What does the yarn to front and back mean? I did what I thought was correct but my pattern looks nothing like the picture!!!
Also, does yarn to front and yarn to back mean the same as yarn forward and yarn backward? If not, what do these mean?
Thank goodness I have 7 months to knit this jacket!
Thank you so much if you can help.
Helena
Dear Helena,
Without seeing what the finished stitch pattern should look like, I do believe that the “yarn to front” and “yarn to back” are exactly as you first guessed.
“Yarn to front” means to bring the yarn (between the needle tips) to the front of your work, just like you do if you are ribbing (”ribbing” is like doing [K1, p1] over and over to get a ribbed fabric) and need to move the yarn to the front to purl the next stitch.
Simply put, take the yarn and bring it towards you by bringing it between the 2 needle tips and letting it sit in front of your work.
So, “yarn to back” means to bring the yarn to the back of your work, just like when you prepare to knit the next stitch while ribbing.
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
June 12th, 2007 at 07:19am
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Dear SweaterBabe,
I keep reading about making a ball of yarn before knitting a project. Apparently, you need to “re-wrap” the yarn into what I have heard described as “a ball that unwinds from the inside”. I cannot find any info that tells me HOW or WHY to do this.
Could you please explain.
Thank You from a new knitter (addicted to sock knitting, but have as yet to finish one)
Tracy
Dear Tracy,
That’s a great question that I get asked a LOT.
There are some situations where I would recommend you “re-wind” the yarn… but other times, I think it’s more a matter of personal preference and time. Some people really prefer balls to unwind from the center so the balls will not be rolling around. Others are perfectly happy with balls unwinding from the outside, as this is often what you get when you purchase the yarn as balls and don’t want to take the extra time to re-wind each one.
Here are some different scenarios and my advice/thoughts:
– If you buy the yarn as a skein, you can usually find where the yarn can pull from center of the skein, so just use that end and you won’t need to re-wind it into a ball. Otherwise, you can also use the end that is unwinding from the outside, in which case the skein will just roll around on your floor or table. HINT: You can “contain” the rolling by putting your yarn in a bag. I like to use the handled paper bags that can stand-up on their own, e.g. the ones you often get at boutiques or as gift bags. OR here’s an example of a product called a “yarntainer,” that was specially made for this purpose.
– If you buy the yarn as a ball, you can also often find the end that is coming from the center, in which case you won’t need to re-wind it. If you can’t find the center (you can’t locate the end without making a mess of the ball, etc.), then you can either knit or crochet from the ball using the end that will unwind from the outside OR you can “re-wind” the ball and create a “center-pulling” ball (explained below).
– If you buy the yarn as a hank, then you MUST first wind the yarn into a ball (center-pulling or just a regular ball) before you can use it. If you don’t, then you are VERY likely to tangle up the hank and end up with a big mess and lots of wasted yarn. Since more expensive yarns are often sold as hanks (because they are hand-dyed that way, hand-spun, or just look better displayed that way), you really want to make sure you take the time to wind them into the balls first. You may try asking the Yarn Shop staff if they can wind it for you, as they will often have a yarn swift and ball winder that can make it a cinch to turn the hanks into balls. OR perhaps they will let you use the swift and ball winder to do it yourself. If you will be doing it at home, see the technique tips below. Here’s what a swift and ball winder look like.
– If you are doing any kind of colorwork where you are using separate balls of yarn at the same time, balls that pull from the center are great to prevent the colors from tangling. BUT also, you can use the handled paper bags (one per color) or the special containers that I’ve seen at shops that have separate compartments for each color. If you use the bags or containers, balls that unwind from the outside are just fine. Here’s an example of a great bag for colorwork.
OK - so how do you wind a ball of yarn??
1) To wind a ball that pulls from the outside, you just take the yarn and start winding it around the palm of your hand a bunch of times. When it gets a bit bulky in your hand, take it off of your hand and turn it 90 degrees so you can wind around the middle of what you had wound around your hand. Keep going, winding around the mass of yarn and keep turning. As you turn and continue to wind, it will end up looking more ball like.
2) If you want it to pull from the center, the trick is to keep track of the center end and to NOT wind too tightly (or it will be too hard to pull the yarn from the center as you use up the ball). Start by keeping about 6″ of yarn out as a tail. Start winding the yarn while making sure this tail is ALWAYS sticking out.
Here’s the technique I learned… I line up the tail against my thumb (of my non-dominant hand, i.e. my left thumb since I am right-handed) and start winding the yarn around my thumb and the tail, keeping it loose so that my thumb is creating a little tunnel within the ball. It’s as if you were to wind a skinny band aid around your thumb, completely covering the tip of your thumb evenly. After winding around your thumb for a little while, you take out your thumb and you will have a thumb-sized tunnel/hole where the tail of yarn is sticking out. This is where the yarn will unwind from. Continue to wind the ball as for a normal ball, turning it to make it more ball-like, BUT always making sure you never accidentally wind over the thumbhole and lose track of the tail.
Do you have more suggestions on winding balls of knitting yarn? Feel free to submit your comments!
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
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