Knitting Questions and How to
May 9th, 2008 at 01:22pm
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Hey SweaterBabe,
I was just wondering. I’m making squares to make a baby blanket. I cast on 50 stitches and I was wondering, would I need to knit 50 rows to make it an even square, or would I need to knit 100 rows?
– Brianna
Dear Brianna,
Neither! Most stitches are not perfectly square, nor are they half as tall as they are wide.
What you are asking is based on your knitting gauge, i.e. how many stitches and rows equal X inches given your knitting tension, the needle size, and the stitch you are using.
For example, a common knitting gauge with medium weight yarn might be 14 sts and 18 rows = 4″. So, to make a 4″ square, you would knit 14 sts and 18 rows.
To make a square with 50 sts, you will have to calculate that 50 sts divided by (14 sts/4″) = approximately 14.25″. To get 14.25″ of rows, you need to knit (18 rows/4″) x 14.25 = approximately 64 rows.
So, measure your knitting gauge (by making a swatch and then measuring it), then you can calculate exactly how many rows will get you the same length as your 50 stitches.
Best,
SweaterBabe
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
May 9th, 2008 at 01:10pm
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Hi SweaterBabe,
Just wondered when a pattern says to chain in multiples of 8 plus 2, how do you decide how many chains to do? Thanks
– Maya
Dear Maya,
When a pattern says to cast on or chain a multiple of 8 plus 2, it is only explaining how the stitch pattern works. That lace, cable, or whatever stitch pattern works if you have 8 + 2 chains (or stitches), 16 + 2 chains (or stitches), 24 + 2 chains (or stitches), etc.
Keep looking later in the pattern and it should say chain X, X being the very specific number of chains that are needed to make the project in the pattern. If not, then I think there must be a typo!
Happy crocheting and knitting!
SweaterBabe
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
May 9th, 2008 at 01:04pm
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Hello Sweaterbabe,
When a pattern says, “Knit until the length is so many inches”, do you measure from the stitches on the needle, or only the actual fabric just below?
Thanks, Carolyn
Dear Carolyn,
I believe it doesn’t really matter, as long as you are consistent for the same project. That being said, I always measure from just under the needle. That is how I’ve learned from books and it is easier to do (since what you are measuring is flat).
I don’t think it really matters, especially if you aren’s using the really bulky needles (sizes 15 or more). One row won’t affect the overall length much in these cases. But you do want to make sure that whatever row measures that X” for you is the same row you use for the front vs. the back, the left sleeve vs. the right sleeve, etc.
Also, if you are measuring up to a certain length to bind off, that last row that is on your needles will get “bound off” and often ”used up” in the shoulder seam.
AND, a lot of times a pattern will say, work until body measures X”, ending on a WS row. If you end up just having done a RS row when you measure X”, then you will have to work an extra row to get to the correct side of your knitting anyhow.
Hope that answers it! Just be consistent.
Best,
SweaterBabe
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
March 28th, 2008 at 01:14pm
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Dear SweaterBabe,
I’m a new knitter. Why is it that the edges curl on the scarf that I knitted? Thank You.
Dear New Knitter,
I’m guessing that you are doing the Stockinette Stitch, i.e. knitting row, then purling a row. Unfortunately, this is a pattern stitch which will give you curled edges.
These same curled edges are like what you see for the rolled collars or cuffs of many kid’s sweaters. You often see them as the rolled brim of a hat as well.
Unfortunately, it is just the nature of this stitch pattern that causes the edges to curl. Basically, the “surface tension” on the purled side is stronger than the knit side, causing the edges to curl in.
What can you do about it?
Well, not much. Especially for a scarf. As you make the scarf longer and longer, it will gain in it’s tendency to curl and you’ll end up with a rolled scarf (which was sold as a style this last season by many stores, including the Gap).
I generally never recomment using Stockinette Stitch to make a basic scarf, because of this rolling issue.
Garter stitch is better for scarves (just knitting every row), as it will lay flat and looks the same on both sides.
Some scarves that have Stockinette stitch may not roll so much because they have substantial edgings or other stitch patterns that “fight” or “counter” the curling, and give you a finished scarf that generally lays flat. However, combining stitch patterns maybe something that is a little advanced for a new knitter… better for a future project.
Hope that helps!
– SweaterBabe
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
March 28th, 2008 at 01:05pm
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Dear SweaterBabe,
I am knitting a sock on DPN’s and my ribbing looks awful….Any tips or tricks to make it look neater would be great…..thanks
– Kim
Dear Kim,
Yes - keeping your knitting even with DPN’s and ribbing can be challenging.
One thing is to make sure you keep a firm tension on the yarn when you are ribbing the first 1-2 sts when you move to a new DPN.
What do I mean by a firm tension? First, I hope that you are holding the yarn with some amount of tension in the hand that is controlling the yarn. This would be the right hand if you are a right-handed knitter knitting in the English method.
This is your natural knitting tension and it is controlled by some consistent way that you hold the yarn as it feeds from the ball and is used to create each new stitch. Most knitters have the yarn woven through their fingers, often over their index finger, under their middle and ring finger, and either over their pinky or wrapped around their pinky.
Given that you have this natural tension when you normally knit, make it a little firmer by consciously pulling the yarn a little tighter for these first few stitches as you transition from one DPN to the next. This will help the looseness that can often show between DPNs.
I suggest holding this firmer tension for a few stitches since it takes a few stitches to sort of “stabilize” your knitting on the new DPN, if that makes sense.
And for ribbing in general, the transitions between knit and purl stitches can cause some unevenness. I believe this is a matter of maintaining your consistent knitting tension, so make sure you are very consistent in how you hold your yarn as you knit.
Hope that helps!
– SweaterBabe
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
March 28th, 2008 at 10:34am
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Dear SweaterBabe,
I purchased the pattern #73 women’s top down short sleeved cardigan from you and was hoping to be able to use yarn I have the my gauge is 10 stitches to 3 inches. I was thinking of making the smaller size and using this yarn. It is a softee chunky yarn with a gauge on the label of 15s and 20r for 4×4. Any advice??
Dear Knitter,
Yarn substitution can be tricky if you really want to use a yarn from your stash.
The most important thing is to match the pattern’s gauge; however, it’s also important to consider and try to closely match the weight and nature of the yarn.
For example:
– substituting a medium weight yarn for a bulky weight yarn will cause the stitches to look looser, which may be fine if the new yarn has some mohair or other fluffy fiber in it that will fill in the space;
– substituting a boucle yarn for a basic, plied yarn will change the look of the finished project (like obscuring any fancy stitch textures or lace patterning) and may give you an inconsistent gauge;
– substituting a heavier cotton yarn for a lighter weight synthetic blend will affect the drape and overall weight of a project;
– substituting a marled or ombre colored yarn for a solid color yarn will make it harder to see delicate stitchwork;
etc.
Things like this should be taken into consideration when choosing a yarn substitution. However, the best test will be to knit a swatch (which you have to do to see if you can match the pattern gauge) and see if you like the effect of the yarn substitution.
In your specific example, the pattern is calling for a bulky weight yarn, which is defined (by www.yarnstandards.com, a commonly used standard) as a yarn which knits to a gauge of 3 to 3.75 sts per inch on size 9 to 11 needles.
You yarn seems like a bulky yarn at 15 sts = 4″ or 3.75 sts = 1″, so that’s a good start.
Next step is to see if you can match the gauge called for in the pattern exactly, then you can most likely get good results with your substitution.
The gauge for pattern #73 is 8 stitches = 3” [7.5cm] and approx. 17 rows = 4” [10 cm] on size 11 needles.
Knit a swatch on size 11 needles and see if you meet the gauge. Be sure to measure it flat and not while the stitches are still on your needle. If you are a little off, you may be able to change to a needle size bigger or smaller and knit a new swatch. It’s not important what needle size you need, as long as you can achieve the desired gauge.
Once you do match the gauge, you can pretty safely go ahead and feel confident in your substitution.
NOW, if the gauge is a little off, and you still want to use the yarn… you may be able to just knit a smaller or larger size to “make up” for the gauge being off. This approach can work, but I don’t generally recommend it for any projects where the shaping is precise.
Pattern #73 is a top-down pattern which has very specific rows required to complete the raglan shaping from the neck down to the underarms. If by substituting a yarn that gives a different gauge and knitting different size to compensate, you end up with too few or too many rows once you’ve completed the shaping the the underarms, you would then need some pattern expertise to know how to continue and make the pattern work from there. I think most beginners would not want this challenge.
For more on measuring and matching gauge… you can see this previous post on this same topic at: http://sweaterbabe.com/WordPressBlog/knitting-questions-and-how-to/yarn-substitution-and-measuring-gauge-part-i/.
– SweaterBabe
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
March 10th, 2008 at 12:34pm
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Dear SweaterBabe,
Love your site - well I’m knitting my first summer top (I’m tired of making hats, scarfs and blankets) and have a question regarding the back.
I find the “knitting language” to be challenging and I feel that I am doubting and questioning everything about this pattern - can you help me with this?
“For the Back - work as given for front except neck. When work measures 17 3/4″ bind off the 20 center sts. Then bind off at neck edge on every alt row 3 sts once and 2 sts. once. When work measures 18 1/8″ bind off for shoulder shaping 7 sts on every alt row twice.” The begining of the instructions I understand - “work as given for front except neck” - can you help me with rest? Thanks again.
– Confused Knitter
Dear Confused Knitter,
Yes - encountering knitting lingo for the first time can be rather challenging! Let me break it down and translate it as best as I can for you:
“For the Back - work as given for front except neck.”
You’re good with this part, great! Just follow the exact instructions for the back, but don’t do the same neck shaping.
“When work measures 17 3/4″ bind off the 20 center sts.”
When your knitting measures 17 3/4″ from the beginning, you will need to bind off the center 20 sts to begin the front neck shaping.
So, work until your piece measures 17 3/4″. End with a WS row (so your next row is a RS row).
The RS Row: Knit to the center 20 sts, bind off 20 sts, knit to end. You will now have a left and right shoulder to finish. You can choose to do them at the same time, or put one set of sts on a holder to continue after the first shoulder is done. I recommend just doing one shoulder at a time.
“Then bind off at neck edge on every alt row 3 sts once and 2 sts. once.”
Let’s say you bound off those center 20 sts on Row 100, a RS row. Now, you will need to bind off sts at the neck edge to continue shaping the neck.
Now, for this next row, you have the WS facing you. So, you will be working the right shoulder sts (continuing with the same ball of yarn) and you can now slip the remaining sts (for the left shoulder) on a st holder, or leave them on your needle and ignore them until you are finished with the right shoulder.
Now, remember that you can only do the bind off of 3 sts at the beginning of a row. So, on this next row, you can’t do it for the RIGHT shoulder because the neck edge is at the end of the row. So, you just work the row even (no shaping).
Row 101 (WS): Work even to end.
And here is the “every alternating row” part - it just means “every other row”:
Row 102 (RS): Bind off 3 sts at beginning, work even to end. [This is your “3 sts once”]
Row 103: Work even to end.
Row 104: Bind off 2 sts at beginning, work even to end. [This is your “2 sts once”]
Now the neck shaping for the right shoulder is done. Your next instruction is:
“When work measures 18 1/8″ bind off for shoulder shaping 7 sts on every alt row twice.”
So, on the remaining right shoulder sts [and now I can see that there should be 14 sts left since your shoulder shaping is to bind off 7 sts twice and 7 x 2 = 14 sts], keep working even until your right shoulder is 18 1/8″ from the beginning of your knitting. Then, on your next WS row, you can begin the shaping [be sure to note the Row number so your left shoulder can match]:
Next WS Row: Bind off 7 sts at beginning, work even to end.
Next Row: Work even to end.
Next WS Row: Bind off 7 sts. The right shoulder should be done.
OK - so now back to the left shoulder.
Join the yarn to continue with the left shoulder stitches from the row right after you bound off those center 20 sts. This next row is the WS Row 101 and you are now back to: “Then bind off at neck edge on every alt row 3 sts once and 2 sts. once.”
Because of the “every alt row” part, I wouldn’t do the bind off 3 sts on this next row, but on Row 103 (remember, you can’t do it on Row 102 because the neck edge is at the end of that row).
Row 101 (WS): Work even to end.
Row 102: Work even to end.
Row 103: Bind off 3 sts at the beginning and work even to end.
Row 104: Work even to end.
Row 105: Bind off 2 sts at the beginning and work even to end.
Now, you are left with “When work measures 18 1/8″ bind off for shoulder shaping 7 sts on every alt row twice.”
So, for whatever row on the right shoulder you begain shoulder shaping, begin shoulder shaping for the left shoulder on the next row (since you can only bind off 7 at the shoulder when the shoulder is at the beginning of your row).
Whew! I know it may still confuse, but if you follow along once with your knitting in front of you, it will make sense and future encounters with this type of standard instruction should be far less confusing!
– SweaterBabe
If you have a knitting or crochet question for SweaterBabe, please email it to advice@sweaterbabe.com. Please do NOT post it as a comment here. Not all questions can be answered due to the large volume of questions, but many are selected and answered each month here on the Blog and in the SweaterBabe.com newsletters. Thanks!
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
March 10th, 2008 at 11:50am
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Dear SweaterBabe,
I have found some bulky yarn on sale. The yarn skein contains 57.5 yards, needle size is 10-11 and 3.75 sts over 4″. My vest pattern that I want to knit is for a needle size 13 and 2.5 sts over 4″. I need 400 yards for my vest.
My question is there a mathematical formula that I can use to determine how much yarn to order. Scared that I will not order enough and since this yarn is online I cannot knit a swatch.
– Connie
Dear Connie,
You actually can easily detemine how much yarn to order since all you need is the yardage.
Your vest requires 400 yards and the sale yarn comes in 57.5 yard balls. Therefore, 400 / 57.5 = 7 balls. I might order 8 just to be safe.
However, what I’m wondering is if your question means that you will be doing any changes to the pattern. A pattern that has a gauge of 2.5 sts = 1″ (I think you meant 1″, not 4″) seems like a Super Bulky yarn vs. the sale yarn, which is Bulky yarn with a gauge of 4 sts = 1″ (I think you meant 1″, not 4″ here as well). I would actually be concerned that the yarn you are substituting may not be thick enough.
The only way to really test it will be to order it, do the gauge swatch, and measure it.
Best of luck and I hope I’ve answered your question!
– SweaterBabe
If you have a knitting or crochet question for SweaterBabe, please email it to advice@sweaterbabe.com. Please do NOT post it as a comment here. Not all questions can be answered due to the large volume of questions, but many are selected and answered each month here on the Blog and in the SweaterBabe.com newsletters. Thanks!
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
March 10th, 2008 at 11:38am
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Hi SweaterBabe,
I was wondering if you could tell me, how many stiches shall i cast on when i’m doing a scarf. I want to do a average scarf but i don’t know how many stiches to cast on.
Many Thanks Toni x Age 13 x
Dear Toni,
Good question. And the answer is - it totally depends!
What needle size are you using? What yarn weight are you using? What stitch pattern are you using?
And the real question is, what knitting gauge are you getting?
More on all this in a minute.
If you are just a beginner doing the Garter Stitch and trying to figure out how many stitches to cast on for a simple scarf, then here are some easier/quicker suggestions….
– If you don’t mind winging it, take a scarf that you like and measure it’s width (scarves are often 7-10″ wide). Cast on some stitches on your needle - like 30 sts. Stretch/spread them out a little on your needle and see how many of those stitches get you the the same width of the sample scarf. If you cast on too many, take those cast on stitches off the needle and undo them. If you cast on too few, just cast on how many more it looks like you need to meet the width of the sample scarf. This will give you a scarf width that is close enough.
– Then, after knitting a few rows, you can check and see how the width is coming out. If you aren’t happy with it, start over and cast on more or less stitches to adjust.
If you wish to be more precise about the whole thing… then here is long answer:
– The main thing you need to do is determine your gauge with the needles, yarn, and stitch that you will use for the scarf.
To do this, knit a 4×4 or so swatch. You’ll be guessing how many stitches will get you 4″ or more, so just cast on what looks like enough. OR, go by the gauge stated on the yarn label and base it on that. For example, if the yarn label says this yarn gets an average of 4 sts = 1″ on size 8 needles, then assuming you are using size 8 needles (or larger), cast on 16 or more stitches.
After you have knit what looks like a square, bind off.
To be really precise, you should then block the swatch using whatever method you will be blocking your scarf.
Lay the swatch down flat on a table and measure across the stitches. See how many stitches can measure exactly 4″. If you end up counting partial stitches, then try for 3″ and see if you can get “whole” stitches.
Once you have determined your stitch gauge, you can use it to calculate how many stitches are needed to create any width.
For example, if you are measuring 16 sts = 4″, then you easily calculate how many sts to cast on for a 8″ wide scarf: 16 / 4 = 4 sts to each inch. Times 8″ = 32 sts. Cast on 32 sts.
The row gauge can also be determined by measuring your swatch. This is optional for a scarf since you can just knit until the scarf is long enough for your liking.
Hope I’ve answered your question! Sorry for the long answer, gauge is one of those topics that can be so important when knitting projects need to come out the right size (sweaters especially). So, it’s good practice to learn how to use it for simpler project first.
Best,
– SweaterBabe
If you have a knitting or crochet question for SweaterBabe, please email it to advice@sweaterbabe.com. Please do NOT post it as a comment here. Not all questions can be answered due to the large volume of questions, but many are selected and answered each month here on the Blog and in the SweaterBabe.com newsletters. Thanks!
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
February 15th, 2008 at 08:12am
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Dear Sweaterbabe,
I am working on a pattern for a baby undershirt and it calls for some drastic increasing. I can manage the part that says increase one stich at each end six times. But how do you increase 3 stiches at each end for two rows and then increase 5 stiches at each end for two rows??
– J
Dear J,
To increase multiple stitches at the end of a row, you really need to “cast on” those stitches. Is this increasing part to add the arms to the undershirt and you are working the undershirt from the bottom up? That’s my best guess.
To increase 3 sts at the end of a row, you can use the single strand cast-on method to add 3 sts. First, wrap the yarn around your left thumb as shown:
Then, use your right needle tip to pick up the strand in FRONT of your left thumb from the BOTTOM up:
Here is the strand getting picked up:
Remove your left thumb from the loop and let it form on your right needle. You’ve just increased the 1st of the 3 sts. Repeat from the first photo 2 times for 3 sts. [Note: It looks like you added 2 sts here, but these photos were from a project that illustrated another technique as well.)
Alternately, you can increase 3 by using a “knit on” cast on method. For instance, if you just turned your work, knit the first stitch, but place this completed stitch on your left needle (just by slipping it back on - inserting your left needle tip into the stitch front to back). You’ve just increased 1 stitch. Knit this new stitch again and place the just completed stitch on your left needle. Now you’ve increased 2 stitches. Repeat again for 3 stitches. Turn.
Knit your 3 new stitches and complete the row, then turn your work and add on the 3 for your other end using the same method to get your “increase 3 sts at each end.”
Hope that explains it!
– SweaterBabe
If you have a knitting or crochet question for SweaterBabe, please email it to advice@sweaterbabe.com. Please do NOT post it as a comment here. Not all questions can be answered due to the large volume of questions, but many are selected and answered each month here on the Blog and in the SweaterBabe.com newsletters. Thanks!
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
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