Knitting Questions and How to
July 4th, 2008 at 11:36am
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Dear SweaterBabe,
Greetings… Uggg….I am stuck and do not know what to do. My pattern reads; Row 2: * K1, yo, k3, sl1, k2tog, psso, k3, yo, rep from * across (I understand this part), end last rep k1 (this is what I I am stuck on, I do not understand….I end my last yo, but then I am able to k1, yo, and then k2). I would greatly appreciate the help on what to do. Thank you for your time,
– Patricia
Dear Patricia,
When it says “end last rep k1″, it should mean “end last rep with k1 instead of k3, yo”. It should always be the very last part of the instruction that is different just for the last rep. (Assuming a well-written, standard pattern!)
That being the case, I’m afraid you might have worked your row incorrectly or have the wrong number of sts if you are getting to the end of your row and still have enough to do k1, yo, k2, instead of just k1.
I would suggest double checking the number of sts you have and making sure you are doing the “K1, yo, k3, sl1, k2tog, psso, k3, yo, rep from * across” correctly.
If neither of those suggestions fix your problem, then I would wonder if the pattern is just not well written…
My only other interpretation is that you are able to do a complete rep from *, then you still have one st leftover, which you can do your k1 with. If this is the correct interpretation, then I believe it should have been written “end k1″, instead of “end last rep k1″.
Hope it works out!
– SweaterBabe
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
July 4th, 2008 at 11:06am
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Dear SweaterBabe,
I recently bought some fine merino wool called Merinos 8 Shadow. It came with this Notice/Suggestion. “. . . . .special dye process that produces gentle shading and subtle variations . . . . . . To alleviate any possible striping, we suggest that you join 2 skeins of yarn and alternate them every 2 rows.” How exactly do I do this?
– Lorena
Dear Lorena,
For some yarns, there is natural variation eve within dye lots because of the dyeing process. That’s when they recommend that you alternate from 2 balls of yarn throughout so you won’t don’t end up with a project that has sections that look like different shades of the same yarn.
To alternate yarn every 2 rows, use the same technique you’d use to add a stripe to your project.
For instance, begin knitting or crocheting with ball #1. Work 2 rows of your project. Then, join in the 2nd ball at the end or Row 2/beginning of Row 3 and work Rows 3 and 4. You can join by just picking up the strand from ball #2 and using it to knit or crochet. It will feel “loose” because you have not knotted it to anything, but just keep using it and you can secure it later when you weave in all your loose ends at finishing time.
After Row 4, you should be on the same edge of your work where you left ball #1 hanging. Just drop the strand from ball #2 and use the strand from ball #1 to work the next 2 rows.
Repeat this last step, alternating balls #1 and #2 every 2 rows.
This method does assume you are either making a project where the “edges” of your work will end up in a seam, or the little bit of yarn that is carried over the 2 rows on each edge (whichever ball is unused for 2 rows) are not too noticeable.
Hope this answers it!
Of course, if you see no discernable difference in the shadings/colors of the balls of yarn you are using, then don’t bother!
Best,
SweaterBabe
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
July 4th, 2008 at 10:52am
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Dear SweaterBabe,
Bind off 4 stitches at beg of next 2 rows. Does this mean bind off 2 stitches each side to equal 4? or Does it mean 4 stitches on each side witch will equal a total of 8? Thank you.
– Irene
Dear Irene,
YES - it means to bind off 4 sts at the beginning of your next row.
Then, bind of 4 sts at the beginning of your next row.
So, you end up with 4 sts bound off at EACH end for a total of 8.
When in doubt, try to read the instructions as directly as possible. Each word is deliberate in a well-written pattern.
Hope that answers your question! It applies to both knitting and crochet patterns, particularly when shaping armholes and shoulders.
– SweaterBabe
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
May 9th, 2008 at 01:22pm
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Hey SweaterBabe,
I was just wondering. I’m making squares to make a baby blanket. I cast on 50 stitches and I was wondering, would I need to knit 50 rows to make it an even square, or would I need to knit 100 rows?
– Brianna
Dear Brianna,
Neither! Most stitches are not perfectly square, nor are they half as tall as they are wide.
What you are asking is based on your knitting gauge, i.e. how many stitches and rows equal X inches given your knitting tension, the needle size, and the stitch you are using.
For example, a common knitting gauge with medium weight yarn might be 14 sts and 18 rows = 4″. So, to make a 4″ square, you would knit 14 sts and 18 rows.
To make a square with 50 sts, you will have to calculate that 50 sts divided by (14 sts/4″) = approximately 14.25″. To get 14.25″ of rows, you need to knit (18 rows/4″) x 14.25 = approximately 64 rows.
So, measure your knitting gauge (by making a swatch and then measuring it), then you can calculate exactly how many rows will get you the same length as your 50 stitches.
Best,
SweaterBabe
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
May 9th, 2008 at 01:10pm
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Hi SweaterBabe,
Just wondered when a pattern says to chain in multiples of 8 plus 2, how do you decide how many chains to do? Thanks
– Maya
Dear Maya,
When a pattern says to cast on or chain a multiple of 8 plus 2, it is only explaining how the stitch pattern works. That lace, cable, or whatever stitch pattern works if you have 8 + 2 chains (or stitches), 16 + 2 chains (or stitches), 24 + 2 chains (or stitches), etc.
Keep looking later in the pattern and it should say chain X, X being the very specific number of chains that are needed to make the project in the pattern. If not, then I think there must be a typo!
Happy crocheting and knitting!
SweaterBabe
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
May 9th, 2008 at 01:04pm
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Hello Sweaterbabe,
When a pattern says, “Knit until the length is so many inches”, do you measure from the stitches on the needle, or only the actual fabric just below?
Thanks, Carolyn
Dear Carolyn,
I believe it doesn’t really matter, as long as you are consistent for the same project. That being said, I always measure from just under the needle. That is how I’ve learned from books and it is easier to do (since what you are measuring is flat).
I don’t think it really matters, especially if you aren’s using the really bulky needles (sizes 15 or more). One row won’t affect the overall length much in these cases. But you do want to make sure that whatever row measures that X” for you is the same row you use for the front vs. the back, the left sleeve vs. the right sleeve, etc.
Also, if you are measuring up to a certain length to bind off, that last row that is on your needles will get “bound off” and often ”used up” in the shoulder seam.
AND, a lot of times a pattern will say, work until body measures X”, ending on a WS row. If you end up just having done a RS row when you measure X”, then you will have to work an extra row to get to the correct side of your knitting anyhow.
Hope that answers it! Just be consistent.
Best,
SweaterBabe
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
March 28th, 2008 at 01:14pm
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Dear SweaterBabe,
I’m a new knitter. Why is it that the edges curl on the scarf that I knitted? Thank You.
Dear New Knitter,
I’m guessing that you are doing the Stockinette Stitch, i.e. knitting row, then purling a row. Unfortunately, this is a pattern stitch which will give you curled edges.
These same curled edges are like what you see for the rolled collars or cuffs of many kid’s sweaters. You often see them as the rolled brim of a hat as well.
Unfortunately, it is just the nature of this stitch pattern that causes the edges to curl. Basically, the “surface tension” on the purled side is stronger than the knit side, causing the edges to curl in.
What can you do about it?
Well, not much. Especially for a scarf. As you make the scarf longer and longer, it will gain in it’s tendency to curl and you’ll end up with a rolled scarf (which was sold as a style this last season by many stores, including the Gap).
I generally never recomment using Stockinette Stitch to make a basic scarf, because of this rolling issue.
Garter stitch is better for scarves (just knitting every row), as it will lay flat and looks the same on both sides.
Some scarves that have Stockinette stitch may not roll so much because they have substantial edgings or other stitch patterns that “fight” or “counter” the curling, and give you a finished scarf that generally lays flat. However, combining stitch patterns maybe something that is a little advanced for a new knitter… better for a future project.
Hope that helps!
– SweaterBabe
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
March 28th, 2008 at 01:05pm
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Dear SweaterBabe,
I am knitting a sock on DPN’s and my ribbing looks awful….Any tips or tricks to make it look neater would be great…..thanks
– Kim
Dear Kim,
Yes - keeping your knitting even with DPN’s and ribbing can be challenging.
One thing is to make sure you keep a firm tension on the yarn when you are ribbing the first 1-2 sts when you move to a new DPN.
What do I mean by a firm tension? First, I hope that you are holding the yarn with some amount of tension in the hand that is controlling the yarn. This would be the right hand if you are a right-handed knitter knitting in the English method.
This is your natural knitting tension and it is controlled by some consistent way that you hold the yarn as it feeds from the ball and is used to create each new stitch. Most knitters have the yarn woven through their fingers, often over their index finger, under their middle and ring finger, and either over their pinky or wrapped around their pinky.
Given that you have this natural tension when you normally knit, make it a little firmer by consciously pulling the yarn a little tighter for these first few stitches as you transition from one DPN to the next. This will help the looseness that can often show between DPNs.
I suggest holding this firmer tension for a few stitches since it takes a few stitches to sort of “stabilize” your knitting on the new DPN, if that makes sense.
And for ribbing in general, the transitions between knit and purl stitches can cause some unevenness. I believe this is a matter of maintaining your consistent knitting tension, so make sure you are very consistent in how you hold your yarn as you knit.
Hope that helps!
– SweaterBabe
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
March 28th, 2008 at 10:34am
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Dear SweaterBabe,
I purchased the pattern #73 women’s top down short sleeved cardigan from you and was hoping to be able to use yarn I have the my gauge is 10 stitches to 3 inches. I was thinking of making the smaller size and using this yarn. It is a softee chunky yarn with a gauge on the label of 15s and 20r for 4×4. Any advice??
Dear Knitter,
Yarn substitution can be tricky if you really want to use a yarn from your stash.
The most important thing is to match the pattern’s gauge; however, it’s also important to consider and try to closely match the weight and nature of the yarn.
For example:
– substituting a medium weight yarn for a bulky weight yarn will cause the stitches to look looser, which may be fine if the new yarn has some mohair or other fluffy fiber in it that will fill in the space;
– substituting a boucle yarn for a basic, plied yarn will change the look of the finished project (like obscuring any fancy stitch textures or lace patterning) and may give you an inconsistent gauge;
– substituting a heavier cotton yarn for a lighter weight synthetic blend will affect the drape and overall weight of a project;
– substituting a marled or ombre colored yarn for a solid color yarn will make it harder to see delicate stitchwork;
etc.
Things like this should be taken into consideration when choosing a yarn substitution. However, the best test will be to knit a swatch (which you have to do to see if you can match the pattern gauge) and see if you like the effect of the yarn substitution.
In your specific example, the pattern is calling for a bulky weight yarn, which is defined (by www.yarnstandards.com, a commonly used standard) as a yarn which knits to a gauge of 3 to 3.75 sts per inch on size 9 to 11 needles.
You yarn seems like a bulky yarn at 15 sts = 4″ or 3.75 sts = 1″, so that’s a good start.
Next step is to see if you can match the gauge called for in the pattern exactly, then you can most likely get good results with your substitution.
The gauge for pattern #73 is 8 stitches = 3” [7.5cm] and approx. 17 rows = 4” [10 cm] on size 11 needles.
Knit a swatch on size 11 needles and see if you meet the gauge. Be sure to measure it flat and not while the stitches are still on your needle. If you are a little off, you may be able to change to a needle size bigger or smaller and knit a new swatch. It’s not important what needle size you need, as long as you can achieve the desired gauge.
Once you do match the gauge, you can pretty safely go ahead and feel confident in your substitution.
NOW, if the gauge is a little off, and you still want to use the yarn… you may be able to just knit a smaller or larger size to “make up” for the gauge being off. This approach can work, but I don’t generally recommend it for any projects where the shaping is precise.
Pattern #73 is a top-down pattern which has very specific rows required to complete the raglan shaping from the neck down to the underarms. If by substituting a yarn that gives a different gauge and knitting different size to compensate, you end up with too few or too many rows once you’ve completed the shaping the the underarms, you would then need some pattern expertise to know how to continue and make the pattern work from there. I think most beginners would not want this challenge.
For more on measuring and matching gauge… you can see this previous post on this same topic at: http://sweaterbabe.com/WordPressBlog/knitting-questions-and-how-to/yarn-substitution-and-measuring-gauge-part-i/.
– SweaterBabe
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
March 10th, 2008 at 12:34pm
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Dear SweaterBabe,
Love your site - well I’m knitting my first summer top (I’m tired of making hats, scarfs and blankets) and have a question regarding the back.
I find the “knitting language” to be challenging and I feel that I am doubting and questioning everything about this pattern - can you help me with this?
“For the Back - work as given for front except neck. When work measures 17 3/4″ bind off the 20 center sts. Then bind off at neck edge on every alt row 3 sts once and 2 sts. once. When work measures 18 1/8″ bind off for shoulder shaping 7 sts on every alt row twice.” The begining of the instructions I understand - “work as given for front except neck” - can you help me with rest? Thanks again.
– Confused Knitter
Dear Confused Knitter,
Yes - encountering knitting lingo for the first time can be rather challenging! Let me break it down and translate it as best as I can for you:
“For the Back - work as given for front except neck.”
You’re good with this part, great! Just follow the exact instructions for the back, but don’t do the same neck shaping.
“When work measures 17 3/4″ bind off the 20 center sts.”
When your knitting measures 17 3/4″ from the beginning, you will need to bind off the center 20 sts to begin the front neck shaping.
So, work until your piece measures 17 3/4″. End with a WS row (so your next row is a RS row).
The RS Row: Knit to the center 20 sts, bind off 20 sts, knit to end. You will now have a left and right shoulder to finish. You can choose to do them at the same time, or put one set of sts on a holder to continue after the first shoulder is done. I recommend just doing one shoulder at a time.
“Then bind off at neck edge on every alt row 3 sts once and 2 sts. once.”
Let’s say you bound off those center 20 sts on Row 100, a RS row. Now, you will need to bind off sts at the neck edge to continue shaping the neck.
Now, for this next row, you have the WS facing you. So, you will be working the right shoulder sts (continuing with the same ball of yarn) and you can now slip the remaining sts (for the left shoulder) on a st holder, or leave them on your needle and ignore them until you are finished with the right shoulder.
Now, remember that you can only do the bind off of 3 sts at the beginning of a row. So, on this next row, you can’t do it for the RIGHT shoulder because the neck edge is at the end of the row. So, you just work the row even (no shaping).
Row 101 (WS): Work even to end.
And here is the “every alternating row” part - it just means “every other row”:
Row 102 (RS): Bind off 3 sts at beginning, work even to end. [This is your “3 sts once”]
Row 103: Work even to end.
Row 104: Bind off 2 sts at beginning, work even to end. [This is your “2 sts once”]
Now the neck shaping for the right shoulder is done. Your next instruction is:
“When work measures 18 1/8″ bind off for shoulder shaping 7 sts on every alt row twice.”
So, on the remaining right shoulder sts [and now I can see that there should be 14 sts left since your shoulder shaping is to bind off 7 sts twice and 7 x 2 = 14 sts], keep working even until your right shoulder is 18 1/8″ from the beginning of your knitting. Then, on your next WS row, you can begin the shaping [be sure to note the Row number so your left shoulder can match]:
Next WS Row: Bind off 7 sts at beginning, work even to end.
Next Row: Work even to end.
Next WS Row: Bind off 7 sts. The right shoulder should be done.
OK - so now back to the left shoulder.
Join the yarn to continue with the left shoulder stitches from the row right after you bound off those center 20 sts. This next row is the WS Row 101 and you are now back to: “Then bind off at neck edge on every alt row 3 sts once and 2 sts. once.”
Because of the “every alt row” part, I wouldn’t do the bind off 3 sts on this next row, but on Row 103 (remember, you can’t do it on Row 102 because the neck edge is at the end of that row).
Row 101 (WS): Work even to end.
Row 102: Work even to end.
Row 103: Bind off 3 sts at the beginning and work even to end.
Row 104: Work even to end.
Row 105: Bind off 2 sts at the beginning and work even to end.
Now, you are left with “When work measures 18 1/8″ bind off for shoulder shaping 7 sts on every alt row twice.”
So, for whatever row on the right shoulder you begain shoulder shaping, begin shoulder shaping for the left shoulder on the next row (since you can only bind off 7 at the shoulder when the shoulder is at the beginning of your row).
Whew! I know it may still confuse, but if you follow along once with your knitting in front of you, it will make sense and future encounters with this type of standard instruction should be far less confusing!
– SweaterBabe
If you have a knitting or crochet question for SweaterBabe, please email it to advice@sweaterbabe.com. Please do NOT post it as a comment here. Not all questions can be answered due to the large volume of questions, but many are selected and answered each month here on the Blog and in the SweaterBabe.com newsletters. Thanks!
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
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