What is Stocking Stitch and How Do You Do Reverse Shaping?

January 15th, 2008 at 11:39am Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

Here are two recent questions emailed to me.  The second one on “reverse shaping” applies to knitting as well as crochet. . .

Dear SweaterBabe,

I recently bought a booklet with patterns. Currently I am knitting mittens and they say to knit 4 inches of stocking stitches. What is a stocking stitch?

– Francois C.

Dear Francois,

I believe Stocking Stitch is the same as Stockinette Stitch.  So, it is just alternating knitting a row (on the Right side of your work) and purling a row (on the Wrong side of your work).

If you are working in the round, and the Right Side is ALWAYS facing you, then just knit every stitch on every row to get Stockinette Stitch.

– SweaterBabe

Dear SweaterBabe,

Hello! Please explain reverse shaping! Thanks!

– JoAnn S

Dear JoAnn,

Yes, the dreaded “reverse shaping!”  When I see this in a pattern, I often cringe, even if just a little (because it means a little extra work for me!).

For example, if you just completed the LEFT FRONT of a cardigan, the instructions for the RIGHT FRONT may just simply say “Work as for LEFT FRONT, reversing all shaping.”

Yup, so now what??  Hopefully the shaping is not too complex. . .

First, I would hope (and strongly suggest!) that you keep good notes as you do the LEFT FRONT.  Jot down EXACTLY which row you did the first bind off or decrease for the armhole (for example).  Then, also jot down every row that you do any further decreasing or shaping for the armhole… Do this for any waist, neckline, shoulder, and any other shaping that is done in the pattern.

Then, when you do the RIGHT FRONT, you can easily refer to your notes and see that on Row X, you began shaping the armhole, then on Row Y you decreased some number of stitches at the armhole edge, etc.

To “Reverse Shaping”, you just do the same bind offs and decreases (or increases) at the same times, but on the other edge.  For example, the “armhole edge” on the LEFT FRONT is the beginning of the row when you are on the Right Side of your work.  The “armhole edge” on the RIGHT FRONT is at the END of the row when you are on the Right Side of your work. 

So, if the armhole shaping starts with some initial bind off (like bind off 3 sts)… and you did this on Row 50 (a Right Side Row) of your LEFT FRONT… then you would be doing this on Row 51 (A Wrong Side Row) of your RIGHT FRONT. 

Why?  Because this initial bind off is only done at the beginning of a row.  Staggering it by 1 row will not be noticable and this will mimic the “bind off 3 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows” that most likely started the armhole shaping of your BACK piece.

Then, if you did a decrease on every row 3 times, then every other row 3 times to complete the armhole shaping, you can go ahead and do the same now for the RIGHT FRONT, but be sure to do these decreases at the armhole edge, which is now on the opposite edge (of what it was for the LEFT FRONT).

This “reverse shaping” instruction can also appear for shoulder shaping.  Same idea.  Just do the same shaping steps, but do it at the other edge of your work.

Hope that explains it well enough!  The key is really to keep good notes on the shaping as you go.

– SweaterBabe

Got a knitting or crochet question for SweaterBabe?  Please email it to advice@sweaterbabe.com.  Please do NOT post it here, as I can only answer those emailed to the address above.

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe 2 comments

2sctog versus 2 sc in next st.

November 15th, 2007 at 08:27am Under Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

“Dear SweaterBabe,

The instruction says ‘1 sc in first st, 2sctog, work to within last 2 sts, inc 1 st in next st, 1 sc in last sc.’

What is the different between 2sctog and 2 sc in next st?  I’m not understanding if I should put 2sctog all the way to the end or is it telling me just at that st or continue doing sc after I do the 2sctog?  Need help.  Thank you.” — Robin

Dear Robin,

The instructions: ‘1 sc in first st, 2sctog, work to within last 2 sts, inc 1 st in next st, 1 sc in last sc.’ mean this:

1 sc in the first st

Work the next 2 sts together by inserting hook in 1st, yo, pull loop through, inserting hook in 2nd st, yo, pull loop through, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.  A 2sctog is completed.

Now, the “work to within last 2 sts” sounds to me like “1 sc in next st and eash st across until you reach the last 2 sts.”

Now you have 2 sts left at the end of the row.  In the1st one, do an increase by working 2 separate sc’s into it.

The last st, you just do the 1 sc in last st as instructed.

I am assuming that this is a basic sc stitch fabric that you are making.  It’s not so clear from the snippet, but I think a safe assumption.

Hope that answers the question!  (I would have written it differently).

Best,

SweaterBabe

p.s. If you have other thoughts for Robin, please post a comment!

If you have a question on a DIFFERENT crochet or knitting topic, please do not post it here.  Email it to advice@sweaterbabe.com.  Questions are selected every other week or so to be answered here on the blog and in the SweaterBabe.com newsletter.  Sorry - I get way too many to answer them all!

 

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe Add comment

Keeping Track of a Complicated Pattern

November 15th, 2007 at 08:02am Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

“Dear SweaterBabe, I have never knit a ‘fitted’ sweater that requires increasing and decreasing stitches in a bodice that has a pattern.  What is the easiest way to keep track of the increases and decreases, so that the pattern is maintained? 

Also, do you know of a computer program that would help do this, e.g. a computer program that would “graph out” a pattern??  Thanks for your help.” – Ilona

Dear Ilona,

The main thing I do with any pattern that has multiple sizes, stitch patterns, shaping, or other complexity is to map it out by rows using paper and pencil.

Before that, I do recommend photocopying the pattern and then circling ALL of the instructions that apply for the size you are making.  For example, if you are making size Small and the instructions include Small (Medium, Large), then you will be finding all of the parts of the pattern that say things like: “K23 (25, 27)” or “For Size Small ONLY” and circling or highlighting the “23″ part (since you would ignore the “(25, 27) which are for the Medium and Large sizes) and the whole section under “For Size Small ONLY”.

Then, as I am beginning to follow the pattern, I write down EVERY Row number, starting from Row 1, and note what happens on Rows that have any increasing or decreasing or a change in stitch pattern.  I also note the number of stitches that I should have at the end of an increasing or decreasing Row. 

If there is a stitch pattern (cable, lace, intarsia, etc.) involved or multiple, I will note which Row of the stitch pattern(s) I am following for each project Row.  That way, I will always keep track of the total Rows for a piece, as well as which stitch pattern Row I am.

It seems tedious, but I do it for any pattern that is the least bit complicated.  It helps a lot too when you keep good track of the Back piece of a sweater because the Front piece(s) most likely will follow the same Rows and you can then be sure that your Back and Front(s) are the same length, i.e. number of Rows to the underarm, shoulder, etc.  Same with making sure the 1st sleeve matches the 2nd sleeve.

Now, if your question is also how to handle increases and decreases for shaping when the stitch pattern has increases and decreases (most lace stitch patterns do), then the answer is a bit more complicated. 

You basically do what you can of the stitch pattern, up to the point that you have to do the shaping increases or decreases.  For instance, if you are binding off stitches and doing decreases along a neck edge to shape the neckline, you may do an initial bind off that cuts right into your lace stitch pattern.  Do the bind off, as instructed, then resume the lace stitch pattern with the remaining stitches.  Double check how many stitches you are supposed to have after this bind off row. 

Sometimes, you may have to “adjust” the lace stitch and omit a decrease or increase to end up with the right number of stitches.  Hopefully, by the time you get to the neck shaping, you will have done the lace stitch pattern enough for the body of the piece that you are familiar with which decreases and increases within the structure of the lace stitch pattern are paired up to maintain the stitch count from row to row.  That way, when you can only do part of the lace stitch pattern, you can see which increase or decreases to skip or add to keep the stitch count correct through any shaping.

I’m afraid I can’t be much more specific about this last issue, as each stitch pattern can be so different.  The most important thing is to make sure the stitch count is correct.  A little weird increasing or decreasing (otherwise known as “fudging” at the edges is usually ok since there will be some finishing (like a picked up and knitted collar or edging) that will hide unsightly edges.

And lastly, I’m not aware of any programs that can map or graph out a pattern as you are suggesting.  There are definitely programs that can generate schmatics and graphs of patterns, but I imagine that by the time you learn these programs and enter in all the project information, you would have been just as well off writing out Rows as I do for projects.

Hope that helps!  Intermediate and Expert level projects are challenging in this way, but with a little extra attention to where you are in the pattern, the finished results will be very rewarding!

Best,

SweaterBabe

Have any other suggestions for Ilana, please post your comments!

If you have questions about OTHER topics, please don’t post them here.  Please email them to advice@sweaterbabe.com.  Questions are selected and answered here on the blog.

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe Add comment

Free Crochet Bat Pattern to Download for Halloween!

September 28th, 2007 at 10:59am Under Updates+ New Crochet Patterns+ Crochet Questions and How to+ Free Crochet Patterns

Whoa!  Crochet bats??  Yup.  I admit to being a little obsessive and wanting to CROCHET something for my kid’s halloween party rather than buy all the stuff at a party store.

So, I came up with this quick and very versatile project!  Make one or make a colony of bats.  Scatter them around a table as party decor, hand them out as party favors, glue them onto hair clips, headbands, string them up as a bat mobile (ha ha, had to say that one!), or use your imagination!

They take up so little yarn… and I even included a Crochet Symbols Diagram in the pattern to make them REALLY easy to make (I hope!).

Download this pattern from the SweaterBabe.com Free Pattern Download page now.  Enjoy!

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe 2 comments

Understanding Crochet Instructions

August 28th, 2007 at 08:37am Under Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

Dear SweaterBabe,

I am a beginner and I need help with something that appears to be quite simple but I do not get it.

sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp, ch1, sc in next ch 3-sp, *(ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 3 times, ch 1, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch 3-sp: repeat from *

I know sc - single crochet and the shell pattern with the 5 double crochet.  I am not getting the “next ch-3 sp”. 

I worked on this for hours last evening and I just don’t know what  to do.  This is only row 2 I am working on.  Just never learned this terminology. Could you put this instruction in plain English?

Here is the beginning of the pattern:

Chain 146 loosely.

Row 1:  Sc in second ch from hook. *ch 3, skip next 2 chs, sc in next ch; repeat from * across:  49 sc and 48 ch-3 sps. Row 2:  (Right Side): Ch 4 (counts as first dc plus ch 1, now and throughout), Turn; sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp, ch1, sc in next ch 3-sp, *(ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 3 times, ch 1, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch 3-sp: repeat from * across to last sc, ch1, dc in last sc: 90 sts and 49 sps.

Thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!– Janet

Dear Janet,

Here is the same set of instructions long-hand to try and explain each bit of Row 2:

Row 2:  (Right Side): Ch 4 (counts as first dc plus ch 1, now and throughout), Turn

Row 2 is the “Right Side” of your work, meaning that it will be the side that faces out or is the “prettier” side of the item/garment.

Counting the Ch 4 at the beginning as the first dc, plus ch 1 is just for 1) counting stitches if you need to (especially if there is a stitch count mentioned at the end of the row) and 2) may be how the “ch 4″ will be referred to at the end of Row 3 if you need to work a stitch into it.

“Turn” just means to turn your work to begin the next row.  You will turn your work like you do the page of a book and begin working your second row from right to left. 

; sc in next ch-3 sp,

As you are looking down the row (right to left), you will see the next chain-3 space, which is one of the 48 ch-3 spaces that you created on Row 1.  Work a sc in that ch-3 sp by inserting your hook in the space and working the sc. 

ch 1, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp,

Chain 1 ch, then work 5 dc into the next chain-3 space you see to the left.  Work the first dc into the space by inserting your hook into the space and working the dc.  Then, work 4 more dc into the exact same space, so you create a 5-dc group that fans out like a shell.

ch1, sc in next ch 3-sp,

Chain 1 ch, then work 1 sc in the next chain-3 space you see to the left.

*(ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 3 times,

Work the instructions you see in the parentheses 3 times in a row, which means to: ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp.  You will have just created 3 new ch-3 spaces.

ch 1, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch 3-sp: repeat from * across to last sc,

Chain 1, work 5 dc in the next ch-3 space you see to the left. Chain 1, work 1 sc in the next ch-3 space you see to the left.  Go back to the asterisk and work all the instructions from the asterisk to the colon until you only see 1 sc left (from Row 1). 

ch1, dc in last sc: 90 sts and 49 sps.

Chain 1, work a dc in the last sc (which is the 1st sc that you worked in Row 1).  You should now have 90 sts and 49 spaces that you can count to double check that Row 2 was worked correctly.

Here is a Crochet Diagram that further explains the instructions.  I LOVE these sort of diagrams because you can see visually what the pattern is asking you to do.  I only diagrammed the first part of Row 2, as you will just repeat the part where the big blue arrow arches.  I’ve shown 1 repeat of the * to : section.

Hope this all helps!!  Please feel free to comment on this post.

 

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe 1 comment

Skipping a ch-3?

July 19th, 2007 at 08:40am Under Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

Dear SweaterBabe,

Question:

What does this mean?

Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc in top of first 2-dc cluster, skip ch-3, sc in ea of next 3 sc, skip ch-3,

This is a row I am working on row 4.  I am stuck on this row if you can help me out?  

Thanks, Ms Toni

Dear Ms. Toni,

Let me try to explain…

This crochet instruction line is asking you to work 2 double crochets on top of the first 2-dc cluster that you come across as you are working your row from right to left (assuming you are a right-handed crocheter). 

Then, it is saying that as you look along the previous row (Row 3), continuing from right to left, you will come across a “ch-3″ that you had worked from Row 3.  Skip it, meaning don’t work any crochet stitches into it, and then work on the next part: “sc in ea of next 3 sc”.  Then, it is saying to “skip ch-3″ again, which means that there must be another ch-3 that you had worked on Row 3 that you can skip over.

Basically, when reading crochet instructions, follow it verbatim.  When it says to skip something, just skip it by NOT working any crochet stitches into whatever you are to skip.  You will see this kind of instruction in all sorts of crochet stitch patterns that have open areas, i.e. lacy crochet patterns.

Once you get used to this sort of crochet instruction, it will be easy!  Hope that helps!!!

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe Add comment

Confusing Crochet Instructions - Armholes.

July 10th, 2007 at 08:51am Under Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

Dear SweaterBabe,

Hi my name is Nia and I am trying to crochet a baby sweater and there is one part of the pattern that i don’t understand i wanted to know if you can help me to break this down a little further.

Thank You!

Shape armholes: Next row:Sl st in each of first 4 sts. Ch 2. 1 hdc in each st to last 4 sts. Ch 2. Turn. Leave rem sts unworked. 31 (35-39-43) sts.
Cont even until armhole measures 41⁄2(5-51⁄4-51⁄2) ins [11.5 (12.5-13-14) cm], ending with RS facing and omitting turning ch at end of last row. Fasten off.

Dear Nia,

Let’s write that instruction in plainer terms to make it easier to interpret:

When you shape armholes, you often leave a few stitches unworked at the end of 2 rows to create the armhole opening.  That is why it tells you to “Leave rem sts unworked.”  “to last 4 sts” means to work a hdc in each st as you go along the row UNTIL you see 4 sts sitting “unworked” at the end of your row. 

Here is a photo that illustrates this:

The RED row shows how you do your “Next Row” under the “Shape Armholes” instructions.   You can see where I worked the sl st into the 1st 4 sts, then worked until there were only 4 sts left (see the 4 sts unworked at the end of the Row).  Then, I did the ch 2, which is exactly what you see in the photo above.  So, to “leave rem sts unworked,” you go ahead and turn and begin the next row.

“Cont even until armhole measures…” means to continue in the established stitch pattern (I’m guessing it’s hdc??) without any shaping (NO increasing or decreasing, so maintain the same number of stitches on each row) until you can measure 41⁄2(5-51⁄4-51⁄2) ins from when the armhole shaping began.

Here’s an example of how you measure it:

In the example here, the armhole is only measuring about 1 1/4″, so I would continue to work even (which is what you see in the red) until the appropriate armhole length for the size I am making.

“Ending with RS facing” means that the last row that you work should be a RS row.  Sometimes it is written as “ending with a RS row.” 

 ”Fasten off” means to cut your yarn, leaving approximately a 6″ tail (or more if you will need this tail to do any sewing of seams).  Then, thread your tail through the last loop that was on your hook and pull through to “fasten” or sort of knot your end so nothing can unravel.

Hope that helps!  Please comment if you still have questions.

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe 1 comment

Converting yards to ounces?

June 13th, 2007 at 12:24pm Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

Dear SweaterBabe,

How do you convert yards to ounces?

Dear Knitter/Crocheter,

You can only convert yards (a measure of the length of yarn) to ounces (a measure of the yarn’s weight) if you know how many yards there are per ounce or gram of the yarn. 

This kind of information can be given on the yarn’s ball band/label or you may be able to easily find it online if you know the name of the yarn.  Do a search and either the yarn company that makes the yarn or an online yarn store will have that information available.

Otherwise, it’s a bit of a guess.  Why?  Because yarn weight and length can vary a lot based on what the yarn is made of and it’s thickness.  For example, a featherlight mohair that is sold in super fine or fingering weight, like Rowan’s Kidsilk Haze is sold as .875 oz/25g ball has a length of 227 yds/208m; whereas a bulky 100% wool yarn, like Brown Sheep Burly Spun, is a hefty 8 oz./229g hank, which has only a length of 132 yds/121m.

If you can’t find the yarn label or don’t know what the yarn is, I would suggest going to your nearest yarn shop, finding a similar yarn and seeing what it’s yarn label says for it’s weight to yardage ratio.  Then, you can use this ratio to give you an approximation for your yarn.

Hope that helps!

SweaterBabe

P.S. Here are some math conversions that are helpful:

[Number of inches] x 2.54 = Number of cm

[Number of cm] x .394 = Number of inches

[Number of feet] x .3048 = Number of meters

[Number of yards] x .9144 = Number of meters

[Number of meters] x 1.0936 = Number of yards

[Number of grams] x .035 = Number of ounces

[Number of ounces] x 28.57 = Number of grams

For example, if you have a 50g ball of yarn, it is a 50 x .035 = 1.75g ball of yarn.

Happy knitting and crocheting! 

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe Add comment