Archive for September, 2007
September 15th, 2007 at 08:42am
Under Yarn Store News
“A new sock pattern every month. We have had Angora Bed socks, Surprize cables, and Tulips. Each pattern is free with the purchase of the yarn. Our sock knitting group has grown every month. Our hottest new bag is made on size 13 needles with 3 yarns held together. Fun and fast and adorable. Great for your summer knitting or as a purse or beach bag. The block a month afghan is still going and gathering new knitters along the way. Each month features a new skill.”
Visit Friends of Wool at:
442 Washington Ave, Holland, MI 49423. 616-395-WOOL.
friendsofwool@wmol.com
http://www.friendsofwool.com
Tell them SweaterBabe.com sent you!
If you are a Yarn Shop Owner, tell us your news using our easy online form. We’ll include it in our blog and newsletter to 11,500+ knitters and crocheters!
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
September 4th, 2007 at 08:36am
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Figuring out how to find a good yarn substitute for a knitting or crochet pattern can be a challenge.
Sometimes, it’s a cinch if the yarn is more basic and has a “common” gauge (e.g. 4 or 5 stitches to the inch).
Other times, it can be more difficult if the original yarn used in the pattern has a special blend or unique characteristics…
Here are some basic tips on substituting yarn and measuring gauge.
(If you have a great tip to share on yarn substituting, please email it to advice@sweaterbabe.com.)
If you want to test a yarn and see if it might substitute well for the yarn called for in a pattern, the most important thing is the match the gauge.
Using the needles or hook size suggested in the pattern, make a gauge swatch, i.e. knit or crochet a small 4″ x 4″ or so sample in your yarn. Work the sample in whatever stitch pattern is stated in the Gauge section of your pattern.
Sometimes, it will just be St st, or sc. Sometimes, the gauge is given with the specific lace, cable, or whatever special pattern stitch is used in the project. If this is the case, making the swatch is also a great opportunity for you to try out the pattern stitch and make sure you feel comforable doing it. If the pattern stitch is worked over a multiple of 10 sts plus 1, for example, use the closest multiple that will give you enough of a swatch to measure your gauge nicely. So, if in this same example, the Gauge says 20 sts = 4″, then cast on 21 sts to do 2 repeats of the pattern stitch.
When making a gauge swatch, make sure you work at least 3-4″ , and then BIND OFF! Resist the urge to measure while your swatch is still on your needles, as it is too easy to make your measurements “fit” the desired gauge. Be careful not to cast off too tightly as well.
You may also wish to block the swatch (if you plan to block the finished item as well) before measuring to be even more accurate.
Lay the swatch out on a flat surface (a table, not your lap!) and measure with a ruler or tape measure. Measure across your swatch and count full stitches, NOT half or partial stitches. If you are looking across your ruler and the 3″ marker does not nicely land at the edge of a stitch, then look at the 4″ marker and see if that is at the edge of a stitch. If still not, then try the 5″ marker, etc.
If you find that you have MORE stitches per inch than the pattern Gauge, then try your swatch again with a larger needle or hook.
If you find that you have LESS stitches per inch than the pattern Gauge, then try your swatch again with a smaller needle or hook.
If your gauge is still not matching, you can keep trying, or you may have to try a different yarn. Some yarns are just not good substitutes for each other because of yarn weight or the fiber. You may also reach a point that the gauge you are getting is “close enough.” This may work for you if your project is a blanket or something where fit is not crucial. Do remember that even being a half stitch off can get multipled across the full width of a sweater or blanket and give you a dramatically different width than what you intended AND may eat up more yarn (if your gauge was larger, i.e. you had fewer stitcher per inch) than you wanted (and therefore cost more $$!). Just beware.
Generally, stitch gauge is FAR more important than row gauge. The number of stitches you cast on or use for your rows defines your width and can’t be changed without altering the pattern. If your row gauge is slightly off, you can usually just knit or crochet a few extra or less with no problem.
Here are some initial thoughts on finding possible yarn substitutes for a pattern:
– Use the internet to search on “substitute for [yarn brand] [yarn name]” or a similar search. You may find good yarn substitutes that others have used and commented on in their blogs. It’s worth a shot.
– Try your local yarn shop and ask the salespeople for some advice. If they have a decent selection, you may be able to find something similar just by browsing around.
– If your local yarn shop is not a good option or you can’t find anything there… try to search online yarn shops for similar yarns. See what yarn weight category the original yarn is and search the yarns that are a similar weight.
More on this topic in a future post! Please comment with your thoughts, questions, and tips!
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
September 25th, 2007 at 10:10am
Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe
Knitting Stitch Pattern repeats can be confusing to understand. I’ve been getting lots of emails about understanding how to do these repeats when the stitch count seems to be off.
Here is a specific example that will help!
Here are the first few rows of the Diamond Lace Stitch Pattern as it appears in the SweaterBabe.com pattern instructions for #70 Lush and Lacy Cardigan pattern:
Diamond Lace
Worked over a multiple of 10 sts + 1.
Row 1 (WS and all other WS Rows): Purl.
Row 2: K2, *k2tog, [k1, yo] 2 times, k1, skp, k3; rep from *, ending last rep with k2.
For the BACK, you are asked to work this Diamond Lace over the 21 stitches for the BACK Lace Panel.
BUT, it seems like you need 22 stitches to get through the repeats on Row 2.
Here is why the 21 stitches is correct… it’s the ”ending last rep with k2” part.
What does this last part mean???
Over your 21 sts, do this:
Row 2: K2, *k2tog, [k1, yo] 2 times, k1, skp, k3; rep from *, ending last rep with k2.
Written out for the exact 21 sts, you are doing this:
Row 2: K2, k2tog, [k1, yo] 2 times, k1, skp, k3; k2tog, [k1, yo] 2 times, k1, skp, k2.
The italicized part in is the “last rep” of the part led by the *, so instead of ending it with the “k3;” you are “ending last rep with k2.”
OR, written out even more (removing the brackets and “2 times” wording and just writing it out):
Row 2: K2, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, skp, k3;k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, skp, k2.
This gives you the 21 sts.
Hope this clears it up!
I realize that the “ending last rep with k2″ is new to those that have not seen this before. It is used a lot in knitting and crochet instructions if just the last rep of the pattern is only different.
These are the conventions that prevent written, published patterns from being really, really long. Now that you have seen this, hopefully it will make sense the next time you encounter it!
Katherine
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
September 26th, 2007 at 01:25pm
Under Knitting and Crochet News
Here is a preview of the two latest patterns coming soon! Both are knit from the top down, so the only seam is really the sleeve seams! The beauty of this too is that you can decide how long you want the sleeves. Both of the models are knit with sleeves that can be worn at the new 3/4 length (if you keep the sleeve garter bands unfolded), or at the short-sleeve length. Interesting sleeve lengths and styles are definitely the thing for this fall/winter season.
Both feature fun pockets - the kiwi green one has shaped (kangaroo-like) patch pockets and the long jacket has knit-in pockets. I’m a big fan of pockets, can you tell? They add interesting detail to a sweater and are great for holding little things or keeping your hands warm.
Bulky yarns are used to knit both, so they are fairly quick projects.
Stay tuned to this Blog or subscribed to the SweaterBabe.com newsletters to be notified whaen these patterns are ready.
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe
September 28th, 2007 at 10:59am
Under Updates+ New Crochet Patterns+ Crochet Questions and How to+ Free Crochet Patterns
Whoa! Crochet bats?? Yup. I admit to being a little obsessive and wanting to CROCHET something for my kid’s halloween party rather than buy all the stuff at a party store.
So, I came up with this quick and very versatile project! Make one or make a colony of bats. Scatter them around a table as party decor, hand them out as party favors, glue them onto hair clips, headbands, string them up as a bat mobile (ha ha, had to say that one!), or use your imagination!
They take up so little yarn… and I even included a Crochet Symbols Diagram in the pattern to make them REALLY easy to make (I hope!).
Download this pattern from the SweaterBabe.com Free Pattern Download page now. Enjoy!
By Katherine aka SweaterBabe